NO BUFFS REQUIRED
Buffless
3a–5c+Routes in this range can be completed without buffs or chalk. 5c+ is the hardest buffless grade.
3a5c+
3a4a5a6a7a8a9a
CAIRN CATALOGUE GUIDE
How to Grade Your Route
Cairn uses the real-life French climbing grade system, with additional rules that account for chalk, buffs, and aid.
DIFFICULTY
The Full French Grade Scale
Grades increase from left to right. Cairn begins at 3a for technical climbing.
3a
3a+
3b
3b+
3c
3c+
4a
4a+
4b
4b+
4c
4c+
5a
5a+
5b
5b+
5c
5c+
6a
6a+
6b
6b+
6c
6c+
7a
7a+
7b
7b+
7c
7c+
8a
8a+
8b
8b+
8c
8c+
9a
9a+
9b
9b+
9c
9c+
The letters and plus symbols are part of the grade. For example, 6a is easier than 6a+ which is easier than 6b.
CAIRN-SPECIFIC RULES
Resource Thresholds
The resources required to finish a route place it into one of three major grading ranges.
CHALK REQUIRED
Chalk Required
6a–6c+Beginning at 6a, chalk is required to finish the route. Buffs from pills, drinks, or food are not required in this range.
6a6c+
3a4a5a6a7a8a9a
CHALK + BUFFS
Chalk + Buffs Required
7a–9c+Beginning at 7a, both chalk and buffs are required to reach the top.
7a9c+
3a4a5a6a7a8a9a
SPECIAL NOTATION
Aid Routes
Aid routes require chalk, buffs, and piton placement.
Aid begins at 7a
Because aid routes require buffs as well as chalk, an aid route cannot be rated below 7a.
Count the pitons
Aid is denoted with a capital A followed by the number of pitons required to complete the route.
Add it to the grade
The French grade and aid requirement are shown together.
EXAMPLE
A 7a route requiring three pitons:
7a(A3)
7a describes the climbing grade. A3 means three pitons are required.
GRADING A NEW ROUTE
How to Choose the Right Grade
Resource requirements establish the grade range. Then use the French scale to determine the precise grade within that range.
Check the resources first
Determine whether the route can be climbed buffless, requires chalk, or requires both chalk and buffs.
Compare the difficulty
Compare the movement and overall difficulty to existing Cairn routes within the same resource band.
Use the full scale
Use the letter and plus grades to be precise. Do not skip the intermediate steps.
Add aid notation
If pitons are required, append the appropriate A-number to the French grade.
3a6a7a9c+
The grading scale is based on full buff and chalk usage. Don’t be surprised if the techniques required to send a 5c+ buffless rival those found on much higher grades.