The Secret
Beer For Breakfast
This route starts under the wedged boulder and ends on the upper half of the right pillar.
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This route starts under the wedged boulder and ends on the upper half of the right pillar.
Step up to the ledge just beneath the boulder and looking towards Damas' cave, face right. Use the left most crack (the diagonal ledge and right side crack are off-limits, see pic for clarification) and gain the horizontal crack just beneath the boulder. Get hands on the underside of the boulder and pull her through and up until you can get feet on the lower ledge of the boulder itself.
From here work her hands right and follow with the feet until you can reach out left to grab the very small ledge on the main face of the taller pillar section. Step over and gain the top of this small ledge- find a full rest here.
Reach up to a small arete and follow that up until you can get two good foot holds on an outcropping to the left. Another full rest here.
Find another small arete that leads up to another small ledge with only on good hold in the right corner. Grab it with a hand and eventually get both feet on the top of this ledge. From here's there's an easy sloping arete to the top.
I climbed this with full buffs, no chalk, but it's almost certainly doable with chalk only and perhaps even buffless for a determined, intrepid climber. Please downgrade this shit.
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