Tenzen

Butter Nuts

A variation on Butterfly, this route goes left and uses the arete to top out.

5c+
BufflessVariation
Variation ofButterfly
First AscentRikkeJul 1, 2025
First RedpointOpenOpen
First Clean AscentOpenOpen
Chalk Record99by Open
Speed RecordOpenby Open
4Ascents
3Redpoints

Route Images

Route Line

Reference images showing the line and its path through the mountain.

Beta

Route Info

A variation on Butterfly, this route goes left and uses the arete to top out. After the usual Butterfly approach, stay left and mount a small shelf before smearing up the final arete. It's very slippery and a bit desperate, but manageable with a bit of practice. No claimed repoints, or buffless sends, but I suspect it is possible.

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