Haken

Counterweight

A full counter-clockwise 360° circuit of the Haken spire with a sharp volume crux.

Buffless
First AscentAuroreNov 5, 2026
First RedpointAuroreNov 5, 2026
First Clean AscentOpenOpen
Chalk Record0by Open
Speed RecordOpenby Open
0Ascents
0Redpoints

Route Images

Route Line

Reference images showing the line and its path through the mountain.

Beta

Route Info

Start on the open-sided pier section and jump onto the rock, then follow the line counter-clockwise around the Haken spire.

The starting traverse follows the pretty linear shape of the rock face, following around holds on the medium-low holds and volumes.

You should be able to see the limited lines available and choose the line that is neither the lowest nor highest climable path. The first half is pretty relaxed. (Image 2)

After making its more than 180 degrees around the traversal line you will eventually see the crux area near the vines (Image 3). This is the first bit of proper verticality. Chalk destroys this crux in 2* moves but buffless is a little more expressive on the low holds / limited holds volumes of the crux. Once you have a stable foothold you are set to move onto the shimmy traversal on the ledge and complete the circuit.

The last stretch has multiple lines. It is just important to take the odd looking step-down before leading onto the crack climbing that brings you closer to the starting holds. You will be right back where you started and should be able to jump off the rock and land back on the pier.

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