The Ancient

Medusa

This route climbs the empty faces west of The Ancient.

8c
Dry Tool
First AscentManInAWhiteSuitSep 1, 2026
First RedpointOpenOpen
First Clean AscentN/AN/A
Chalk Record14by ManInAWhiteSuit
Speed RecordOpenby Open
1Ascents
0Redpoints

Route Images

Route Line

Reference images showing the line and its path through the mountain.

Beta

Route Info

Begin on the same ledge as The Kraken, but go immediately left up a slanted rock toward a small roof / dihedral. Continue out far left to the arete and then stay as far left as possible. The crux is a desperate traverse across a stalactite. Reach the left end of the stalactite and find a rest using the left-most roof before heading up the rest of the arete. Gain a full rest at the standing ledge, chalk up and continue up the off-width until it's possible to move right out onto the slab. You'll notice a prominent horn you can get onto. Continue the traverse right until it's nearly impossible. From here, you'll need to use axes to reach the upper right arete. Once you reach the arete, navigate the blocks up and right until you reach the path of The Palace of Winds.

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