The Peril

Pazuzu

The hardest route on Kami.

9c+
Dry Tool
First AscentManInAWhiteSuitApr 2, 2026
First RedpointVirgilAug 30, 2026
First Clean AscentN/AN/A
Chalk Record3by Virgil
Speed RecordOpenby Open
2Ascents
1Redpoints

Route Images

Route Line

Reference images showing the line and its path through the mountain.

Beta

Route Info

Pazazu begins at the bottom of the large outcropping of stalactites. Tuck up under them far left until you see a large diagonal crack.

From here step left over to the bottom of the first major stalactite. Achieve a full rest here, then climb a long arete and transition up to your right and gain the corner of a blocky out cropping. Find another full rest here before traversing right to another short arete. Once at the top of this short arete, reach out right to gain the overhanging arete that leads up to the first major roof.

The first roof is the crux. Going left is the goal but getting up over the roof is difficult. In the middle of arete, just beneath the roof you can find some perfect holds for your feet. Unfortunately, sometimes they don’t trigger. Using dry tooling, you can get two good holds on the far left edge of the roof, sometimes hidden behind the hollow stalactite. Then if you're able to get your feet up you can tuck her left foot on the edge and then slowly push her up to gain the arete directly above and step left onto two good feet and a full rest.

Follow that up to the next roof and go right to gain the roof that hangs overhead. From here you have a longer slightly overhanging arete that can be really slippery, but does have a couple spots for good feet and fulls rests. Towards the top- swing out right to gain the overhanging stalactite.

Once on the overhanging stalactite, move left to the corner and follow it up until you can traverse right to the final arete. The top can be janky, but you can gain feet on the final ledge and reach for the top.

Media

Videos

Videos associated with this route.

See something wrong?

Help Keep This Route Accurate

Route details can change as new records, beta, or information becomes available.

Request an Update