Leaves the parent route
A variation can begin on an established route and then branch away into a different line.
05
The Cairn Catalogue Field Guide
Chapter 05
Variations
Variations let the Catalogue preserve meaningful alternate lines without turning every small change in a start, finish, or branch into a completely separate route.
Route Relationships
Similar enough to be related. Different enough to matter.
A route variation is a route that branches from a parent route, branches into a parent route, or shares no more than 30% of the parent route.
Variations include alternate starts that lead into an established route, extensions that continue beyond it, and other branches that share a limited portion of an existing line.
30%
The Variation Rule
Thirty percent or less.
A variation may climb 30% or less of the parent route. If it shares more than 30%, it is no longer considered a variation.
What Counts as a Variation?
Branches, alternate starts, and extensions
Joins the parent route
A route can begin differently and later merge into an established parent route.
A different way in
A different opening sequence that leads into an existing route can qualify as a variation.
A different way out
A route that continues beyond the established finish of a parent route can also be treated as a variation.
Not a Variation
More than 30% is an overlap.
Overlaps are not accepted into the Catalogue as separate routes.
AcceptedVariation
Shared with parentNew climbing
30%
70%
Most of the route is distinct from the parent.
≤ 30%shared
Not AcceptedOverlap
Shared with parentNew climbing
80%
20%
Most of the route repeats an established line.
> 30%shared
A mostly existing route does not become new because the start or finish changed.
If a line climbs more than 30% of an existing route, it is an overlap and is not allowed as a separate listing.
Measuring the 30%
We look at the climbing and the line.
The percentage is not based on only one measurement.
01
Meaningful climbing moves
The shared portion should account for 30% or less of the meaningful climbing involved in the route.
02
Route line
The physical route line should also remain at or below the 30% shared threshold.
It should be under the limit either way.
A route should not pass the variation test by looking short on the image while still repeating too much meaningful climbing, or vice versa.
Why This Rule Exists
Routes in the Catalogue should be distinct.
Without an overlap rule, the same climb could appear again and again simply because someone changed the start, added a small finish, or drew a slightly different line.
That would quickly make the Catalogue — and especially the Ticklist — overwhelming with routes that mostly repeat climbing users have already done.
Route
Start AStart BFinish AFinish BFinish C
Not five new routes.
Parent Routes
Variations still get their own route listing.
A variation is treated like a normal route throughout the Catalogue.
It gets its own name, grade, images, records, and route page just like any other accepted route.
The only difference is that the route lists its parent route to show the relationship between the two lines.
RouteVariation Name6a+
Parent RouteEstablished Route
Naming
Variations can have their own names.
There is no special naming format required simply because a route is a variation. You can name a variation whatever you want, as long as the name follows the Catalogue's normal naming and conduct standards.
Route History
A variation can be corrected later.
Like any other route in the Catalogue, a variation can be updated if new evidence proves that it had already been climbed, named, or documented earlier.
Its route history, records, name, or relationship to another route can be corrected when better published evidence comes to light.
Quick Check
Is it a variation?
✓
Does it branch from an existing route?Possibly a variation✓
Does it branch into an existing route?Possibly a variation✓
Is it an alternate start or extension?Possibly a variation✓
Does it share 30% or less?Variation range×
Does it share more than 30%?Overlap — not accepted30
Remember
Variations preserve meaningful differences.
The goal is not to catalogue every possible start and finish. It is to preserve distinct climbing lines while still recognizing legitimate branches and extensions of established routes.
Continue Reading
Grading
Learn how Cairn Catalogue grades routes, what the difficulty scale represents, and how special route types are rated.