Chapter 04

Records & Ascents

FA, FR, and FC document different milestones in the history of a route — from establishing the line to proving it can be climbed free and clean.

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Route History

Three records. Three different achievements.

Cairn Catalogue uses three primary ascent records to document the history of a route: FA, FR, and FC.

They are not different names for the same accomplishment. Each one records a different milestone, and one climber can legitimately hold all three records on the same route.

First Ascent

Establish the route.

The first accepted ascent of a new route that has not already been established.

Read FA Rules ↓

First Redpoint

Climb it free.

The first recorded ascent made without the use of the rope or pitons.

Read FR Rules ↓

First Clean

Climb it free and clean.

The first recorded ascent made without rope, pitons, buffs, or chalk.

Read FC Rules ↓

At A Glance

How the records differ

FANew Route

Establish the line.

FRFree Ascent

No rope or pitons.

FCClean Ascent

No rope, pitons, buffs, or chalk.

First Ascent

Establishing a new route

A First Ascent is the first accepted ascent of a new route that has not already been established.

Drawing a new line onto Kami does not automatically make it a new route. The route must qualify under the Catalogue's route approval guidelines.

See Adding Routes

The PrincipleAn FA should look like a controlled ascent, not an unfinished project.

Falls are possible

An FA does not automatically become invalid because a fall occurred.

Pitons are possible

Pitons may be present during an FA, depending on the route and the ascent.

Control matters

Large numbers of falls or pitons suggest that the route is still being worked rather than established.

An unfinished route is a project, not an FA.

You cannot expect an FA to be accepted after an uncontrolled ascent involving repeated falls or excessive piton use. The overall quality and design of the ascent are considered during review.

First Redpoint

FR

A redpoint is an ascent made without the use of the rope or pitons. The First Redpoint is simply the first recorded time this happens on a route.

Climber

Rope

Pitons

Proof Standard

The ascent must effectively be a free solo.

If you are claiming a redpoint, pitons cannot appear in the ascent imagery. The route must be shown being climbed without using the rope or pitons.

Using pitons disqualifies a redpoint claim.

A climb with pitons may still be relevant as an FA or Aid ascent, but it is not a redpoint.

First Clean

The Buffless record

First Clean is the first recorded clean ascent of a route.

A clean ascent uses no buffs and no chalk, while also meeting the same free-ascent standard required for a redpoint.

Rope

Pitons

Buffs

Chalk

FC is effectively the Buffless record.

It documents the first time a route was completed free and without buffs or chalk.

Aid Route Rule

Maximum: 4 Pitons

Aid routes are routes where pitons are genuinely required to ascend the line.

Cairn Catalogue limits an Aid route to a maximum of four required pitons. Beyond that point, the line is considered too dependent on pitons to qualify as an acceptable Aid route.

1 PitonA1

2 PitonsA2

3 PitonsA3

4 PitonsA4

Four is the limit.

Routes requiring more than four pitons should not be submitted as Aid routes.

Read the Aid grading scale

Record Ownership

One climber can hold all three.

FA, FR, and FC are separate records. If the same climber is the first person to accomplish each milestone, that climber can hold all three records on the same route.

FAFirst Ascent

FRFirst Redpoint

FCFirst Clean

Historical Record

Records are not permanent when better evidence exists.

FA, FR, and FC information can be updated whenever new information comes to light. If a published record proves that an ascent occurred earlier than the one currently documented, the Catalogue can be corrected to reflect it.

The goal is to preserve the most accurate climbing history available, not to permanently protect an outdated record.

Quick Reference

FA vs. FR vs. FC

RecordWhat It RecordsRopePitonsBuffsChalk

FAFirst accepted ascent of a new routePossiblePossiblePossiblePossible

FRFirst recorded redpointNoNoAllowedAllowed

FCFirst recorded clean ascentNoNoNoNo

FA approval also considers the quality and control of the ascent. Permission for something to be used does not mean excessive use will be accepted.

Variations

Learn when a line is different enough to become its own route, when it is a variation, and how parent routes work.

Chapter 05